Simplicity 1777 1940's WW2 Era Gathered Dress

This pattern is a reproduction of a 1940's pattern by Simplicity. 

I had seen this pattern in the shops and online before, and over and over again I seemed to have the same 'meh' reaction. I'm not sure why. Then one day I just had this urge to make it. It was so bizarre. So I made a special trip to spotlight just to purchase it. 

As I am a History Teacher my love for all things WW2 is pretty obvious, and thus it's follow on effect for fashion. Not just the effect of rationing on hem length and circumference but how this is when American designers really became pronounced as once Paris was under Nazi occupation, there was no more relying on the fashion capital for the latest styling. A further note about Vichy France was how the designers, in attempts to mock the Germans and their Vichy supporters, made obnoxious and extreme fashions which were both garish and excessive. 

But whilst my fascination with 1940's and the fashion of the era is abundant, I am yet to create anything of the era as I found much of the military-inspired skirt suits with padded shoulders were simply not my style and would, on me, perhaps be more reminiscent of the 1980's than the 1940's. 1777 however was a simple dress, without hard shoulders, and some lovely gathers.

I cut a straight 14 for this design. I chose to use a deep red crepe de chine with contrasting black crepe de chine a la the pattern envelope. (what happened to my originality here?!!?) I lined the bodice and skirt of the dress using bemsilk lining and made a self-facing for the contrast yoke. The patterns calls for a faced yoke but the rest of the dress remains unlined. I don't care for unlined garments. 

The lining presented a challenge (I love making things difficult for myself apparently) as if I were to create as a standard lining (inverting of regular pattern pieces) the bulk of the gathers sitting against each other would have been extreme and I was already concerned about the effect of all those gathers around the tummy and waist. So I inserted the lining as you would an interlining around the bodice yoke (treating the shell fabric and lining as one piece) then attached to the rest of the bodice in the usual lining way as an inverted copy of the dress. Whilst it took a lot of fiddling and forethought, it worked out well, reduced the bulk and ensured a beautiful finished inside. 

I doubt I will sew this design again as it is quite unique, although if I were to I would add more ease to the bust area as the gathers seem to pucker as they are pushed underneath. Overall I think this dress looks quite classy and I'm happy with how it turned out.

I considered doing victory rolls for my hair in the photos but it was late and I didn't have the energy so I just pinned my hair up in a way that looked vaguely 1940'sesque. I tried a couple of classic pin-up poses as well as the salute, yet I feel I look rather stupid in both. I certainly felt stupid doing it. 

See pics below

Thanks for reading!

Please feel free to comment, share and pin!

Simplicity 1609 Vintage Jiffy Dress #2

So last post, I mentioned the inspiration for my next take on Simplicity 1609. You can see my first version here. 

This turned out exactly how I pictured it, so I'm very happy! The best part about this pattern is how well it fits me straight out of the envelope. Those french darts are so flattering! 

This time, I made the dress in a panama suiting fabric. I fully lined the dress, and made the variation with the bow. I made the bow in a contrast cream fabric, and chose not to fold it underneath as instructed.

 The 60's 'Mod' pose

That large bow is amaze!

Please feel free to comment, share and pin!

Simplicity 1609 - Vintage 60's Jiffy Dress

 

 

I first spotted this pattern when I was perusing the Simplicity website early in the year and admired the vintage/retro appeal, the different neck options, and of course the fact it only has 2 main pattern pieces. Alas, however in Australia we don't receive the patterns until 6 months after they are released in the US (to match in with the seasons).

 

So I was delighted to finally buy it when I saw it in my local Spotlight.

 

This is a reprint of an actual 1960's "Jiffy" pattern. Jiffy because it's ideally supposed to come together in a jiffy! With only 2 main pieces (cut out on the fold so you end up with 4) and a one-piece facing (THIS WAS EPIC!). Then you can choose your neck detail, scalloped Peter Pan collar, bow or plain. The collar was what had originally caught my eye so I decided to go for that - plus I hadn't done a collar before so was keen for the challenge.

 

 

Supplies ^

I chose to make this out of Cotton Sateen - I love the feel, the sheen, the slight stretch and what a dream it is to sew with. (I DON'T however like how easily it wrinkles!!!!!!)

 

I chose a colour labeled seafoam green - I was originally going to do Fuschia and white but have been starting a lot of pinky projects lately so thought I'd try something different. I liked the green on the pattern envelope - yet I wouldn't be able to pull it off. The seafoam with it's more teal colour seemed like a happy compromise. I purchased white cotton sateen for the collar and was lucky enough to find a zip that damn near matched my dress fabric (although named peacock green) I then selected some buttons to match - they are little flowers with a rhinestone centre. I chose them because I liked that they complimented the scalloped style collar and the rhinestones added a bit of bling.

 

I have a tendency to get caught up in the sewing process and forget to take photos of some stages - So I'll try to paint a word picture for those times when a photo is omitted.

 

 

This was during the cutting out process of the pattern. I always use my floor for a more thorough overview. I cut a size 16 as I had read reviews saying that it's a traditional 60's fit that runs small and I wanted to be on the safe side. I had to take it in a bit at the end - so a 14 would have been fine. This shift-dress cut also works well on an ample bust - I was worried about this - but was pleasantly surprised.

 

 

 

This is the application of the fusible interfacing to the one-piece facing. I used to cut out interfacing using the pattern pieces but didn't like the result to now I apply directly to the facing then trim.

 

 

Ta Da!

 

 

This is the collar pieces cut out laying on some scrap seafoam sateen. To see if I was happy with the colour combo.

 

 This is me stitching the un-notched edge of the collar.

 

 

 

The instructions said to clip along the curves - so I followed the directions and clipped where instructed on the diagram - however when turned right side out the collar was not curved but all hexagonal looking with a sharp line meeting at each notched point. I didn't like it at all. I clipped some more - this helped but only made more, smaller hexagonal lines. So I had an Edward Scissorhands rage-blackout and just fringed the whole damn thing. BUT HEY! It worked! Lovely smooth curves!!! :)

 

 

This was the folded and ready to sew French darts. I sewed all my darts and then joined the front pieces.

 

 

 

 

Stitched on the collar.

 

 

 

 

Pinned at stitched the facing. Then the really cool part - you poke the back pieces through the shoulder part and voila! It's all done! Faced, finished and looking pretty. I pressed. At this point all that was left was to stitch up the side seams and insert the zipper. I used an invisible zip because I prefer the look of them. I then tried the dress on and decided I didn't like the length. It was below the knees (and I'm not a short woman mind you!) and just looked very frumpy! So I cut 5 inches off the bottom - and then hemmed. I'm much happier with it this way. I then applied my little buttons to the front and then stood back and admired! (as I do whenever I finish a piece!)

 

Some finished shots below:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Thank you for reading this post. Feel free to ask questions or leave a comment.